I’d been thinking about clams for days. Shells clacking against the bowl as they’re tossed through steaming pasta, starchy water dripping through the late February sunlight; their sweet meat like tiny treats to slurp from exploded hinges and their saline juices, mingled with the honk of garlic and chilli and the fermented depth of miso.
We made this riff on spaghetti alle vongole into a Friday lunchtime treat, threading tangles of crisp, salty agretti (monk’s beard) through the dish to bring freshness and colour. This Italian coastal plant is very popular on London menus at the moment and I couldn’t resist buying a bunch in Peckham’s General Store. It’s not the kind of vegetable I’ll buy often (too expensive) but the thought of it playing with the white miso and clams was too much for this hopeless ingredient spod to resist.
We ate it with a half bottle of chilled rosé hanging about in the fridge and plenty of bread to squidge into the clammy juices left over. It felt as good as a holiday.